America's Great Restaurants
Cafe Centro
New York, NY 10166 / 212.818.1222
Cafe Centro
"At this sprawling brasserie, looks matter. Rotisserie chickens spin in a giant hearth; the curved, glass-enclosed kitchen demands attention; and streamlined light fixtures create a clubby feel. Chef Franck Deletrain's menu is heavy on surf and turf for the expense-account crowd. Nods to Morocco include a just-sweet-enough chicken b'steeya with a hint of orange-flower water and garnished with spiced candied almonds. Raw-bar choices are popular, as are meaty crab cakes and the butter topped filet mignon. Many of the showy desserts are crowned with arabesques of spun sugar. A more casual meal is available at the moodier adjoining Beer Bar."
Time Out New York
Chef Franck Deletrain is French-born but he grew-up in Italy and even did his culinary training in Italy. At Café Centro, it's a return to the French days for him (however brief) as this spot is a basic re-creation of a Parisian bistro of the 1930's. Expect a major emphasis on seafood including a well-stocked Raw Bar, along with a host of French bistro classics (Coq Au Vin, Cassoulet and Bouillabasse). Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available. Wines from France and California
- Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.